A PRENZLAUER BERG WEEKEND

Or: how do I eat my way through the neighborhood? Berlin isn't my favorite place on earth. In fact, on some days, I downright hate this city and feel like it's best to pack my bags and leave. Well, since everybody knows that it hardly works out to just run away, I have to put up with the fact that people in Berlin actually are in a bad mood and like to be rude at some time, even if you've done nothing to them. And I have to deal with the noise for a little longer, the people that are everywhere and that you're almost never able to enjoy something without a crowd. Yes, Berlin is a tough place and not always that great. Most people, who come here over the weekend or for a one-week-holiday, only see what makes Berlin so different. 

Mauerpark during sunset
Mauerpark during sunset

They still say the city is poor but sexy, don't they? And that's way cooler than the village, you've grown up in or the Munich society – I'm sorry Munich, but nobody comes off well in this article, for starters at least. A typical quote you get to hear around here is: either you love Berlin or you hate it. Either you join the continuous party or you just don't bite the dust.

Well, I've chosen to hate Berlin most of the time. Which is probably not the city's fault after all but merely has to do with the fact, that it's just not where I'd like to be right now. I'd love to be at the beach, I'd love to enjoy the sun and I'd love to listen to the ocean. And this is something a metropolis cannot offer. But here I am right now and I haven't found the place I'd like to live next, so I'm trying to make the best of it and there are actually days, when I'm able to say: hey, Berlin doesn't suck that much. And what adds to that? Of course the district, I'm living in.

Prenzlauer Berg.Actually, I'm living right at the edge. Almost in Weißensee but we're still part of the Prenzlberg. Like every other district, Prenzlauer Berg has to deal with prejudices. 


Turning from an artist-corner into a family-borough, cheap rents and squatters exchanged for refurbished and fancy apartments – same thing is happening in Kreuzberg right now. Thanks to gentrification.

And especially the so-called Prenzlauer Berg-moms. The alternative short haircut, the all-weather jacket by Jack Wolfskin stowed in the buggy and little Malte is only allowed to eat glutenfree gummy bears without gelatin and lactose, because he's suffering from an intolerance. Educational style: my child is able to decide what he wants and what not. We're giving him the space he needs. Well, I also suffer from an intolerance – a bullshit-intolerance. Please pardon me the language. But yes, that's them. The Prenzlauer Berg-moms and yes, they do exist.

But not just them.

There are actually some corners left, that are just fine. Dunckerstraße 69, for example. The Beakers. Welcome to your grandma's and grandpa's living room. It's small, it's cozy. As lights serve rebuilt hi-hats, there's music and you'll find the best breakfast in whole Berlin here. Honestly. I've never had any better breakfast than the Beaker's one. Ordering your food proceeds a little different in here. There are menus, on which you can write your name on and tick off, what you'd like for breakfast. Fresh and especially homemade pancakes, scrambled eggs, fried eggs. Serrano ham, brie, grain rolls, fruits – whatever you like. But be prepared, the servings are huge. So take it slow but you surely won't leave hungry. You're able to feast until 4 pm but it can get crowed at some times.


If you're not the breakfast-guy, well then I've got something else for you in petto, of course. The Pane e Vino right at the underground station Eberswalder Straße, located at the Kastanienallee. Whether you want pizza or pasta, everything's only 3.90 €. And yes, we're talking about normal servings and not a piece of sloppy pizza on a pasteboard from your nearby takeaway inside the station. Whether in front of the restaurant or on the inside, there is always action. And the food tastes really good. How it works for only 3.90 €? I have no idea and I probably don't even want to know but you'll get a lot for your money, you won't leave this place unsatisfied and nothing else matters.

And what's the best thing to do, once you're full and satisfied? Yes, let the day fade away relaxed. There is no better place to to so than the Mauerpark. Up on the hill, sitting next to the swings and watch the sundown above the city rooftops. Add a great bottle of cider or whatever you prefer to drink and the world looks a little brighter for the moment. Once the weekend's over and Monday knocks on your door, there probably will be enough stress and trouble waiting for you.



But for this one moment, when the sun disappears, coloring the sky, the world is okay and Berlin isn't as bad as it usually behaves.

Until then, happy traveling.

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